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The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction. Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g., swell from di...
Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy
Directional Spectrum Ocean Waves Cloverleaf Buoy
2009/3/24
Analysis of the directional spectra of typical sets of surface wave data obtained in the open sea as well as a bay using a cloverleaf buoy system are reported.
It is shown that the directional wave...
The Influence of the Directional Energy Distribution on the Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in a Random Gravity Wave Field
Directional Energy Distribution Nonlinear Dispersion Relation Random Gravity Wave Field
2009/3/7
The influence of the directional distribution of wave energy on the dispersion relation is calculated numerically using various directional wave spectrum models. The results indicate that the dispersi...
The directional Spectra and Kinematics of Surface Gravity Waves in Tropical Storm Delia
directional Spectra Surface Gravity Waves Kinematics Tropical Storm Delia
2009/2/23
Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the...
A New Method for Measuring the Directional Wave Spectrum. Part II. Measurement of the Directional Spectrum and Phase Velocity of Laboratory Wind Waves
Directional Wave Spectrum Phase Velocity Directional Spectrum Laboratory Wind Waves
2009/2/23
A new method for measuring the directional spectrum, introduced in the preceding paper (Rikiishi, 1978), has been applied to actual wind waves in a large experimental tank 70 m × 8 m with the water 3 ...
A New Method for Measuring the Directional Wave Spectrum. Part I. Description
Directional Wave Wave Spectrum
2009/2/23
A new method for measuring the directional wave spectrum is introduced, and the usefulness of the method is examined through numerical analysis of synthetic wave fields. The principle of the method co...
Directional Wave Spectra Observed during JONSWAP 1973
Directional Wave Spectra Observed JONSWAP 1973
2009/2/18
Estimates of the directional wave spectrum obtained from the meteorological buoy of the University of Hamburg and a pitch-and-roll buoy of the Institute of Oceanographic Sciences are reported from a s...
The Statistical Evaluation of Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived from Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
2009/2/16
Estimates of the ocean wave directional spectrum may be extracted from observations of surface vertical acceleration and slope made with a pitch/roll buoy. The analysis requires the specification of a...
A Variational Technique for Extracting Directional Spectra from Multi-Component Wave Data
Variational Technique Multi-Component Wave Data Extracting Directional Spectra
2009/2/13
The problem of extracting directional spectra from observed, multi-component wave data has two facets: 1) the observations provide information only on a finite number of integral properties of the wav...
Observations of Directional Relaxation of Wind Sea Spectra
Wind Sea Spectra Two-dimensional wave
2009/2/6
Two-dimensional wave spectra were acquired through a NOAA Experimental Research Buoy in 34 m of water off the North Carolina coast (Atlantic Ocean). These are analyzed in ideal wave-growth situations ...
Observations of the Directional Distribution of Ocean-Wave Energy in Fetch-Limited Conditions
Directional Distribution Ocean-Wave Energy Fetch-Limited Conditions
2009/1/22
Directional energy distributions of wind-generated waves were observed with a relatively high directional resolution in fairly homogeneous and stationary wind fields in fetch-limited conditions using ...
A Data-Adaptive Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator for Pitch and Roll Type Measurements
Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator Type Measurements
2009/1/21
A data-adaptive directional-spectrum estimator is developed for “point” measurement systems such as the pitch and roll buoy and slope array. This estimator, unlike the much employed unimodal cosine po...
Directional Wave Spectra Measured with the Surface Contour Radar
Directional Wave Surface Contour Radar
2009/1/15
The Surface Contour Radar is a 36-GHz computer-controlled airborne radar which generates a false-color coded elevation map of the sea surface below the aircraft in real-time, and can routinely produce...
Maximum Entropy Estimation of the Directional Distribution in Ocean Wave Spectra
Maximum Entropy Estimation Directional Distribution Ocean Wave Spectra
2009/1/13
A general maximum entropy estimate for the directional distribution of the directional wave spectrum is introduced. The estimate appears to be superior to conventional methods, including maximum likel...
The Effect of the Marginal Ice Zone on the Directional Wave Spectrum of the Ocean
Scott Polar Research Institute Institute of Oceanographic Sciences
2009/1/10
During the MIZEX-84 experiment in the Greenland Sea in June–July 1984, a cooperative program was carried out between the Scott Polar Research Institute (SPRI) and the Institute of Oceanographic Scienc...